How to Build a Bamboo Farm Hut

How to Build a Bamboo Farm Hut 

Last May, my family visited our bangus (milkfish) farm. My two grandkids came along. We had lunch at the farm hut (“alulong” in Pangasinense) sitting on a small tract of land in the middle of the ponds.

It was May, the last dry season month. Across the ponds, light breeze blew through nearby trees, giving the “alulong” natural ventilation and cooling effect. The hut has no walls - only the roof, posts and raised floor with backrest. Well, we can say it was al fresco dining, almost.

The farm hut, with its raised floor, has bare fixtures. A fixed bamboo bench, two long movable wooden benches and a wooden table - all recently built from recycled materials. 

These proved quite handy for the “outdoor” lunch we served at the hut - grilled marinated pork, bangus "sinigang" (popular local dish using tamarind broth stewed with tomatoes, garlic, onions, and veggies), fried “malaga” fish (also called rabbit fish or spinefoot fish), white prawns. And newly picked carabao mangoes for dessert.

After lunch, my grandkids took a nap on portable cushions on the hut's raised wooden floor. Later in the day, my guests checked in for overnight stay in Lingayen. They left for Manila the next day, but vowed to return as all of them enjoyed the scenery and food.

It occurred to me that we needed to make some improvements in the “alulong” to make it more guest-friendly. So why not expand, build a small extension hut to provide bigger space. Also add more fixtures such as benches and a small kitchen counter.

The extension was by itself a separate hut from a construction viewpoint. So, in this blog post, I’d like to share our recent experience in building the bamboo hut - using native materials and know-how.

Materials Needed 

• 4 pcs. bamboo posts (“singeg”) at P50 each.

• 10 pcs. long, thin bamboo (“calasan”) at P50 each.

• 6 pcs. G.I. corrugated roofing sheet (6 ft. each)

• 2 kilos G.I. wire No. 16

• old rubber slippers or bicycle tires

• construction nails, 4”, 3”, and 2”

Note: Three basic types of bamboos are available locally from nearby suppliers:

a. “Buek” - for use as bamboo slats
b. “Singeg” - for use as main posts
c. “Calasan” - for use as roof frames; also as frame for benches and backrests. The lower part of “calasan” is also called “singeg” and can be used as low posts, beams, etc. 

"Calasan" bamboo (left); "singeg" bamboo (right)

"Buek" bamboo

Procedures

1. Planning

Plan the size and design of the farm hut (“alulong”). The hut extension I had in mind measures 76 in. wide, 95 in. long, and 82 in. high from the ground level. Roof is gable type. Except for the roof (G.I. sheets), the hut is all made of bamboo. Note: Firm up the detailed design and dimensions first before buying the type and quantity of materials.

2. Making Posts

a. For posts, make sure to use the correct type of bamboo, i.e., thick and strong ones (“bayog” in Tagalog, “singeg” in Pangasinense).

b. Shave off all rough parts in the nodes and internodes of the bamboo posts, using a bolo knife.

c. Saw off the top part of the pole about 2 in. from the topmost node.

d. From the topmost node, make a 2 in. long “fish mouth” cut using bolo knife and chisel (chop off at two opposite sides starting from the topmost node) to provide an open slot for the bamboo beam.

Main posts with "fish mouth" cut at the end

e. From the top of the bamboo pole or culm, measure the desired length of posts. For this project, gross height is 106 in. while ground level height is 82 in. Note: extension hut should be as tall as the original hut.

f. Set aside the four finished posts.

3. Making a Gable Roof Frame

a. Measure and cut the desired parts from the “calasan” bamboo and assemble the roof frame on the ground to make the job easier.

b. First, prepare 4 temporary bamboo posts (about 1.5 ft. long each). Old “singeg” bamboos will do for this purpose. At the top end of the temporary posts, make a “fish mouth” cut to allow laying of beams on top. Dig 4 temporary holes on the ground, following the desired length and width of the hut. Insert the 4 posts in the holes and back fill with earth. 

Four temporary posts with "fish mouth" cut. These posts will support the bamboo roof frame being assembled on the ground

c. Measure and cut 2 lateral poles (net length of each pole is 76 in., but actual cut should be 79 in. to provide some allowance). Install above the two temporary posts inside the “fish mouth” slot. This serves as the main beam. Install another beam at the other end. Make sure both beams are properly leveled. In my hut extension, the beams are located at the east and west ends.

d. Measure and cut 2 longitudinal poles each 95 in. long. Position each longitudinal pole on top of and perpendicular to the beams. This serves as the joist. Place another joist at the other end. In my hut extension, the joists are located at the north and south ends.

e. Measure and cut 2 vertical poles, (27 in. net length, 31.5 in. actual length including allowance). This serves as the “rise” of the gable roof from the middle of the joist (or longitudinal beam) to the apex of the gable roof. Using bolo knife, make a fish mouth cut at the top part of each vertical pole. Attach the rise to the middle of the joist at the inside portion. 

Nail the vertical pole (rise) to the joist using a 3 in. nail. Further reinforce by strapping it down to the joist using double GI wire. See to it that vertical poles are perpendicular to the joists.

f. Make another 76 in. lateral beam and lay over the top of the 2 vertical poles in (e) above. This serves as the ridge bar or pole. Attach the ridge pole to the fish mouth cut of the 2 vertical poles using a 2 in. nail. Further reinforce attachment by fastening the ridge pole to the vertical poles using double GI wire.

g. Measure and cut 3 pairs of sloping poles 70.5 in. long (each pole). These poles serve as the common rafters. Attach one piece to another piece using a 3 in. nail (2.5 in. from the top of the pole). Position the 3 pairs of rafters over the ridge pole (one at each end and one at the middle). Attach the lower end of the rafters to the beams using a 3 in. nail.

h. Measure and cut 9 pieces of lateral bamboo poles each 76 in. long. These serve as the roofing battens to be installed over the common rafters and on which the GI roofing sheets will be directly laid. Install one batten pole each at the following locations:

(1) on top of the crossed rafters over the ridge pole
(2) on top of the east beam
(3) about 5.5 in. from the ridge pole
(4) at the middle of (2) and (3) above
(5) at the bottom of the east eave (2 in. from the end)

Install at the other side of the roof frame 4 batten poles – on top of the west beam, near the ridge pole, at middle, and at the bottom of the west eave.

Bamboo roof frame being assembled on the ground - consists of 4 posts (temporary), 2 lateral beams, 2 longitudinal joists, 2 vertical rises, 1 ridge pole, 3 sets of diagonal rafters, and battens (9 poles as completed)

i. Using GI wire as fastener,

(1) Attach the lowest battens (at the eave) to the rafters – on north end, south end, and at the middle.

(2) Attach the topmost batten to the ridge pole – on north end, south end, and at the middle

(3) Attach the middle battens to the rafters – on north end, south end, and at the middle

4. Raising the Assembled Roof Frame on Hut Posts

a. Dig up two holes on the ground at the planned location of the extension hut. Note: plan is to attach the extension hut right next to the existing one (that is, west side posts of the extension hut next to the east side posts of the original hut).

b. On the two holes, raise the two west side posts that were completed in Step 2f above. Make sure the two west side posts of the extension hut are properly aligned and leveled with the posts of the original hut. Note: At least four people are needed to hoist the frame atop the posts.

c. Position the completed roof frame atop the two west side posts to determine proper fit and leveling. 

Assembled bamboo roof frame being hoisted up and positioned atop two bamboo posts. The main beam of the roof frame (above worker's head) sits on top of the two bamboo posts (with fish mouth end)

d. Dig up two more holes on the ground for the two east side posts. On the two holes, raise the two east side posts that were completed in Step 2f above. Ensure proper leveling and height.

e. Raise the east end of the roof frame on top of the two east side posts. Ensure the proper alignment and leveling with the west side posts and also the original hut.

f. When the raised roof frame and posts are properly aligned, back fill the four holes on the ground.

g. Attach the raised roof frame to the four posts using GI wire. Note: to do this, nail down a 4” nail halfway on the upper part of the post. Around this nail and the beam, loop the double GI wire repeatedly until the roof frame is tightly secured. Repeat for all four posts.

Bamboo beam attached to the main hut post using GI wire. Note the 4" nail below the beam around which the wire is looped tightly.

5. Installing the GI Sheets on the Main Roof Frame

A typical “alulong” hut for the fish farm normally has thatched roofing or GI sheet roofing. It really depends on your choice. Each has its pluses and minuses. GI sheet roofing costs more but lasts longer. A thatched roof allows warm air to rise to the roof and out thereby giving a natural cooling effect even during the hot summer season.
 

Our fish farm hut was designed to be open, no fixed walls; ventilation is therefore not a problem. The breeze from under the trees and around the ponds blows in and out and cools down the area under the roof. I opted to use GI sheets as roofing for the hut as they tend to last longer and are more water-proof or rain resistant. The original hut has GI sheet roofing - for consistency the extension hut roofing material is of the same kind.

a. Buy the following materials:

· GI wire, 2 kilos
· Nail – 2 in., 1 kilo
· Nail – 3 in., ½ kilo
· GI sheet – 6 pcs., 6 ft. long each
· Plain GI sheet, one piece (for the ridge cap and also for rain gutter between the eaves of the two huts)

b. To attach the GI sheet roofing to the bamboo roof battens, roof wire straps were used. To save cost, local craftsmen or artisans merely improvise these wire straps as follows:

· Cut one inch square rubber from old rubber slippers or bicycle tires

· Punch a hole in the middle of the rubber squares

· Cut a ten inch length of GI wire; bend at the middle 

Making a two-legged wire strap with a T-head

· Using the GI wire, make a wire strap with a half inch wide T-head.

· Insert the wire strap into the hole of the rubber square and pull until rubber square is lodged at the T end of the wire strap. 

Inserting wire strap into the square rubber end

 

Completed wire straps for attaching roof sheets to the bamboo frame

 c. Lay the GI sheets over the roof frame, beginning at the ridge. Punch a hole (using nail) from above the sheet on the bamboo batten underneath. Insert one roof wire strap for each hole (each wire strap has two legs and one T-head). Make sure the batten is enclosed between the two legs of the strap. Pull hard until the rubber below the T-head is compressed against the sheet. Twist and tighten the wire legs together around the bamboo batten using pliers.

d. In my hut extension, I used 6 pieces of 6-foot sheet for the roofing, all attached to the bamboo frame using improvised roof wire straps.

e. For the ridge cap, cover the ridge using a plain (not corrugated) V-shaped GI sheet. Strap the ridge cap down also using rubber-covered wire straps.

f. For rain gutter, we installed only one horizontal piece, also using a plain U-shaped GI sheet. Where? Right at the middle of the two huts, below the eave of the old hut and that of the extension hut. Runoff of rain water from the roofs can then be diverted to the eave gutter toward the north side outside the hut. 

Gutter (top) between the eaves of the original and the new extension hut; middle of photo shows the overhang roof frame made of bamboo and wood; see also the recycled GI sheets for the overhang roof

g. Also install overhang roof at each side of the extension hut (north and south sides). For these, we installed wooden and bamboo frames (see above photo), using the design of the original hut and making sure that the new overhang roofing follow the same slope and level as that of the original hut.

f. For the overhang roofing itself, we used recycled GI sheets (see above photo) bought from a junk shop near the town proper. This is to lessen cost of materials.

g. As for the triangular shaped gable area at the side of the roof and above the overhang roofing, we also covered this with recycled GI sheets. We strapped the overhang roofing and gable area GI sheets to the supporting bamboo frames using rubber-covered nails or wire straps.

Triangular shaped gable area

6. Construction of Interior Benches and Kitchen Counter

a. Kitchen counter – this is made entirely of bamboo located at the east most part of the hut extension. The kitchen counter top is below waist high with four bamboo posts, two lateral beams, and joists. Counter top is made of bamboo slats nailed over the joists. An improvised “backsplash” also made of bamboo slats was also added at the back of the counter top. 

This counter area can be used for outdoor cooking or grilling, or for keeping cooked meals, utensils, water jugs, ice buckets, drinks, etc. – before serving meals to guests at the farm shed.

Bamboo kitchen counter for the extension hut

b. Benches – we built 3 connected long bamboo benches inside the extension hut. These benches have bamboo slats for the seats and backrests. We relocated the medium sized table at the center of the U-shaped dining area. 

Building the bamboo frame for the benches

Sawing several pieces of "calasan" bamboo for backrest posts

Finished U-shaped bamboo benches with backrest; dining table at the middle; kitchen counter at the rear

This extension hut can serve as casual dining area for guests. The long benches can double up as cots too.

Below is the completed hut extension, with its benches and small counter top - using bamboo and recycled materials and traditional knowhow. Not exactly pretty, but comfy, low-cost and functional enough for fish farm use.

Completed extension hut with benches, table, and countertop (right end)

For a complete list of Fish Pond Buddy blog posts on fish farm-related topics, please click the Index page.
 

Measures Against Dirty Tricks in Bangus (Milkfish) Farming

Stop! There's something fishy here!

Measures Against Dirty Tricks in Bangus (Milkfish) Farming


Against dishonest caretaker
 
· Choose carefully your caretaker. Conduct a background check on him and ask for references from previous operators. Require clearance from the "barangay" (local village office) or police authorities. If pattern of losses continue, replace your caretaker. Under Philippine laws, a fishpond is not considered agricultural land, so a fishpond caretaker does not enjoy security of tenure unlike a rice farm tenant. You have the legal right to fire and replace him if he commits serious wrongdoing.

· Preferably, stock size 12 or 14 fingerlings in grow-out ponds since you'll be able to track the quantity. The quantity put in at these sizes is almost the same as quantity to be harvested. Record the quantity and size stocked. Monitor actual size and growth rate of fingerlings more frequently.

· Maintain a complete record of operational information (such as size, quantity, mortality rate, rearing period, feed quantity, etc.) from harvest to harvest by pond by cropping season. Don’t rely merely on financial records of sales and expenses from year to year. Financials may give indications of anomalies committed. But operational data will give clearer evidence of any wrongdoing.

· Conduct personal surprise visits including at odd hours day and night.

· Ask one of your friends-neighbors to serve as your eyes and ears in a confidential capacity. Provide him with incentives to alert you to any dubious actions or suspicious happenings.

· Establish contacts in the fish center who can report to you any unauthorized sales of fish by your caretaker during odd hours (when he has no business selling) and in suspicious quantities.

· If fishpond operation is quite large and additional costs can be absorbed, make use of appropriate surveillance technology (such as a CCTV system).

Against outside poachers

· Clear pond surroundings of low hanging branches, tall weeds, and trim small trees to improve visibility around the pond and remove possible hiding places for outsiders and intruders.

· Make sure caretaker does frequent inspection around the ponds and dikes.

· Check for presence of gill nets ("tabal") around the ponds (the float line can be seen on the pond water surface) and trap cage (“nasa”) through the presence of pull strings, and other trap devices.

· Scatter spiny branches (such as of the thorny camachile tree or pithecellobium dulce) around the pond to make it difficult for intruders to encroach.

· Install barriers to prevent entry by poachers into the inner dikes of your pond.

· Deploy guard dogs.

· Install pond lighting.
 
· Make random rounds during night time using flashlight around the ponds.

· Build a small watcher’s hut preferably in the middle of the farm (for instructions on building a bamboo hut, click this).
 
. Install an electronic timer in the hut where you can plug in your compact flourescent lamp. (hut lighting goes on and off randomly or at designated times). 

A pond hut in the middle of the fish farm. Can use tarpaulin as walls at night, which can be folded up during the day. Use an electronic timer to turn on and off the light automatically

· Avoid leaving the pond unattended at any time.


· If you have extra funds, invest in a CCTV surveillance system for the fish farm (for the detailed steps, click this)
 
. When bangus are near market size, let your trusted caretaker sleep in the pond hut at night to make sure that any attempt to steal your fish can be more easily detected. Tie the guard dog(s) at the pond hut for extra security. They have a keen sense of smell to detect strangers and their loud barks can deter thieves or alert your caretaker.

 

A CCTV metal pole with 2 cameras (part of a 7-camera surveillance system for the fish farm)

Against unscrupulous hired pond workers

· Conduct a background check of all temporary workers before you hire them. Ask for feedback on individual workers and work groups from friends and neighbors. Avoid dealing with a worker or group with a bad reputation or track record.

· Designate household members or trusted relatives as watchers during critical phases of  the harvest.

· Don't allow bringing of sacks, bags, etc. in the pond during harvest work. In case sacks and plastic bags are needed, put them under the control of a trusted watcher or staff.

· Assign watchers to monitor all post-harvest activities to make sure that no fish are taken out on the sly from the ponds.

· Have someone to watch and monitor the shipping area, processing area, and along the route in between.

· Avoid having hired workers coming from just one family or close group. It's easier to conspire if they decide to commit wrongdoing. Mix other workers not belonging to such group to make collusion more difficult during harvest and post-harvest work.

Against scheming “tabal” workers
 
· Assign a trusted person to observe the “tabal” operation, especially the removal of fish and prawn from the gill net.

· Before work begins, check out all the “tabal” gear, including sacks. Count the number of sacks.

· Make sure that the workers don’t bring with them empty sacks or plastic bags into the pond where they can temporarily hide looted prawns, underwater.

· Have your own “tabal” nets made for you.

· Assign the “tabal” work to your own trusted pond workers.

· Carefully check out all the “tabal” nets and sacks after the “tabal” work is done, to make sure that no fish or prawn is taken out on the sly.

· Make sure to weigh all “tabal” catch at the pond before these are sold at the fish center. Record number of kilos for bangus, tilapia, and white prawns.

· Require the presentation of signed sales receipt prepared by the fish center buyer.

· Ensure proper packing of fish and especially white prawns to prevent loss of moisture and ensure proper chilling with ice on the way to the fish center.
  
· Assign the selling task to trusted staff only.

Against devious suppliers  

Keep a central storage where all supplies are kept. Assign your overseer or caretaker (a trusted person) as custodian. Keep a record of feeds purchased as well as record of issues/usage for each pond per cropping season. 

Conduct a count of feeds supplies from time to time. Check against records. That way, you’ll know if feeds stock are missing or are consumed unusually fast.
 
Develop reliable suppliers or agents of bangus fry and fingerlings, including white prawn fry. Deal directly with them (not through the caretaker). Monitor and canvass prevailing fry prices yourself. Keep tabs on the performance of your suppliers and agents as to selling price, delivery, quantity, customer service, and quality of products delivered.
 
Ensure thorough checking of all supplies delivered prior to payment. Check number of sacks, size of sacks, quality of content of sacks, pricing, and timeliness and reliability of delivery. Also make sure that the buying price is in the range of current prices paid by majority of fish farmers in the locality.

For a complete list of Fish Pond Buddy blog posts on fish farm-related topics, please click the Index page.
 

Dirty Tricks to Avoid in Bangus (Milkfish) Farming

Dirty Tricks to Avoid in Bangus (Milkfish) Farming
 
Background

As in any business venture, bangus farming has its own set of risks and threats. If not addressed, they can lead to significant losses and reduced profits.

From our experience, the main threats or business risks in bangus farming are as follows:

1. From employees – The pond caretaker is a major success factor. He can make or break the farm business. A dishonest and predatory caretaker accounts for the major losses incurred (through theft) in fish farming and may cause its eventual failure.

2. From improper farming techniques, poor pond preparation, lack of pond monitoring – Of these, the risk of “tangok” (fish kill due to depletion of dissolved oxygen in pond waters) is paramount. For details, see my blogpost on this subject.

3. From nature – such as floods and droughts that can bring about large-scale losses of the fish stock, if not anticipated.

4. From economic factors – such as low selling prices, flooding of market by large supply of low quality bangus (during fish kill or widespread “tangok”). Bangus prices are determined by market forces. 

Pond operators who sell their harvest at the fish center have no choice but to follow prevailing prices at the time of sale. If the timing is wrong and selling price is unusually low, profits can suffer.

Dirty Tricks Employed by Caretakers/Other Pond Workers
 
Following are the various ways by which a dishonest pond caretaker can undermine profits.


A dishonest pond caretaker

1. Steal big-sized bangus and cover it up with small ones

This is a most common technique adopted by a dishonest caretaker. How does he do it? He stealthily harvests most of the market-sized bangus using gill nets ("lambat" or "tabal") and replaces them with fingerlings.

Aware that the operator keeps tab of the quantity stocked, the caretaker makes sure to replace the big ones with the same number of juveniles or fingerlings (small young bangus). 

At harvest time, the same number of bangus will be taken out – no shortfall in quantity. But owner’s suspicions will be raised regarding the unusually small size, despite the 3,4,5 months rearing period.

For example, with quantity stocked at 5,000 pieces, the cunning caretaker retains 1,000 market-sized bangus, with the rest (around 4,000 pcs.) replaced by fingerlings. As alibi, the caretaker alleges stunted growth. Excuses given - poor fry/fingerling quality, inadequate food, poor water condition, presence of pond weeds, erratic weather, "tangok", etc.

This kind of theft becomes much easier to pull off when the fish farm also includes a nursery pond to grow fingerlings from fry. The caretaker can then conveniently but furtively transfer fingerlings from the nursery to the grow-out pond to cover the quantity stolen.

2. Steal bangus using gill nets ("tabal") without replacement - by caretaker

Usually occurs at night or wee hours of morning. Easy to execute when pond owner-operator does not live in the pond and pond is relatively isolated. No potential witnesses. No neighbors. Caretaker and his entire family members usually conspire to carry out this kind of theft. 

Veteran pond workers say that it’s possible to take out 1,000 pieces of adult bangus using gill net in an hour, especially in the feeding area. Loss is later detected only during harvest and explained as part of normal mortality, presence of predator fish (such as mudfish), or due to attacks of birds.

A sample of gill net ("tabal") in one of my ponds. I have 3 sets for my farm's exclusive use. 

3. Steal bangus using gill nets ("tabal") or trap cage ("nasa") - by an outsider
 
Takes place in an isolated hidden part of a pond. May happen during the day. The thief hides himself behind tall grass or trunk of a big tree. He carries stock of floating feeds hidden among a grassy portion of a neighboring pond. When no one is looking, he casts the feeds in the target area to attract bangus. After the bangus go after the bait, the gill net will do the rest.

This usually happens when (a) pond dikes are not well-maintained (presence of tall weeds; small dike trees such as ipil-ipil are not cut and can serve as hiding place) or (b) caretaker is lazy and does not do regular inspection rounds of all dikes, nor visit the remotest part of the farm or (c) there is no surveillance system (such as CCTV cameras) to detect intruders (almost all fish farmers don't have this).

A variation of the above is the theft of bangus using a trap cage ("nasa") with or without a pull string. In using this device, a poacher places a bait inside the trap cage (unseen because it's underwater), which lures and traps the fish inside the cage.

4. Do large-scale poaching using seine net ("kalokor") - by outsiders

Usually done at night during very heavy storm where chief perpetrator can be a rapacious neighbor who keeps a pond beside or near the victimized pond. It would be easy to just haul in the seine net with the catch and merely transfer the net into the next pond, especially if the caretaker is distracted or lulled to sleep by the severe storm. Involves three or four persons.

Actual case involved a nursery pond teeming with fingerlings. These were stolen at night in the middle of a strong typhoon using a small seine net and transferred to the next pond operated by the thieving neighbor himself.

5. Do wholesale theft of market-sized bangus in temporarily abandoned pond

Perpetrator was a dismissed caretaker who succeeded in terrorizing the new one. Owner-operator was out of town. Out of fear, new caretaker and children temporarily vacated the farm house, thus leaving the entire fish farm unmanned. 

With no one to watch the farm, old caretaker and his cohorts took out a few thousand market-sized bangus using seine net. These were loaded in two tricycles. Unknown to them, a neighbor saw the entire incident and recognized the thieving caretaker.

6. Hide and steal fish during harvest – through collusion between caretaker and harvest crew

This modus operandi was adopted in several incidents, and was detected only when the conspiring harvest crew blew the whistle on the dishonest caretaker. This is how it’s done.

During harvest, caretaker takes with him an empty sack or two. He joins the “kalokor” work. During two rounds of seining, no theft occurs because the owner and other pond workers watch the actual harvest. Meanwhile, after each round, the catch is transferred from the "kalokor" to a "saplar" (sorting) net. The "saplar" net is hauled in water to the processing area beside the farm house.

At this time the owner and his other staff leave the pond and go to the processing area. They supervise the hauling of the fish from the "saplar" sorting net to the fish killing area, application of ice, and pre-chilling of fish.

Meanwhile, during the third and fourth round of seining, the caretaker and conspiring crew fill up hidden empty sacks with big bangus and tilapia from the seine net, then bury the sacks underwater. The harvest crew, all willing conspirators, help the caretaker perpetrate the crime, unseen by any watcher.

When the owner and caretaker leave the farm to sell the catch, the conspiring harvest crew retrieve the sacks of stolen fish from the pond. Together with the sack containing the seine net, they smuggle out the stolen fish hidden in sacks. All done surreptitiously with no one seeing anything amiss. The thieving caretaker is sure he can’t be accused of wrongdoing since he was with the owner selling bangus.

7. Divert fish catch during harvest – by caretaker

This is a variation of Item 6 above.

After harvested bangus are killed in ice, they are counted, put in sacks (150 to 200 pieces each depending on size) at the processing area. Harvest crew then carries each filled sack to the shipment area for loading into waiting transport vehicles.

Theft occurs when the caretaker himself diverts one or two sacks to another place – not to the shipment area. He patiently waits for the owner-operator to leave the processing area and for other trusted staff to get ready to go to the market. With no one looking, caretaker quickly takes the stolen sacks to an accomplish waiting in a nearby dike.

8. Divert and hide sacks containing bangus - by harvest crew
 
This is a further variation of Item 7 above. 

Actual perpetrator(s) are harvest crew members and not the caretaker. In carrying the filled sacks to the shipment area, a conspiring worker diverts sacks full of fish to some hiding place (behind a mango tree, among the tall weeds, at the back of the storeroom, etc.).

While the filled sacks can be seen by the owner-operator being carried from the harvest area, in reality some of these sacks don’t reach the shipping area at all. Result – not all the harvested bangus get to be loaded into transport vehicles and sold at the Dagupan fish center. 

A few sacks of fish get physically diverted, hidden, and later retrieved by thieving harvest worker(s) (in cahoots with the dishonest caretaker), when harvested fish are brought to the fish center.

9. Steal white prawns - by gill net (tabal) workers

After harvesting bangus using the traditional seine net ("kalokor"), the bangus pond operator often employs gill nets ("tabal" in Pangasinense or "lambat" in Tagalog) to trap most remaining bangus, tilapia, and vannamei (white prawns). 

“Tabal” work takes one to two days. “Tabal” workers bring their own nets or rent some (at P50 per "tabal" net). The work involves using one “tabal” net or as many as six nets. Usually “tabal” nets are static gears, i.e., they are installed in fixed location(s), usually along the sides of the pond. However, when using only one, the “tabal” net is hauled by two workers along the length of the pond from end to end.

During “tabal” work, dishonest workers usually steal white prawns simply because they are smaller but command a much higher price (P350 to 500/kilo) compared to either bangus or tilapia (P90 and P40/kilo respectively).

Unscrupulous workers often declare all the tilapia and bangus caught by the “tabal” net, but steal the bulk of white prawns. How is this done?

Most “tabal” work is done at night and workers are usually left alone by owner/operator.
 
To hide the theft, workers present a few pieces of vannamei (2 or 3 pieces) together with the tilapia and bangus, saying that no more vannameis (white prawns) were left. But in reality, gill net workers would have netted 3 to 4 kilos or more of the expensive white prawns.

Bangus and tilapia caught in the net are all removed. But the bulk of the prawns are not and instead retained in the net. A variation of the theft is to use a hidden empty sack or plastic bag, put the stolen prawns inside, and temporarily bury the sack or bag underwater. The sack or bag is retrieved later and taken out of the pond together with the gill nets.

Rented gill nets used in the harvest are stored in jute sacks. After using them, the workers put the nets back again in the sacks. Thus stolen prawns still attached to the nets are taken out undetected inside the sacks, to be untangled later.

10. Other gillnet sales anomalies

When fish or prawns are caught using gill nets, the pond owner sometimes completely leave the workers alone during the "tabal" work, and rely on them to sell the catch in the market by themselves. 

Although sale is not much, loss of revenue can still occur through underweighing, understatement of selling price, loss of receipt, substitution of receipt, nonreporting of soft-shelled prawns, etc.

11. Pilfer feeds and other supplies

A sack of commercial feeds for bangus is bought at P650 to 700 per piece depending on brand. A pond operator usually stocks a large number of feeds in his storage area. A thieving caretaker or employee can pilfer some of the sacks and sell them at a much reduced price to other fish operators nearby.

This is possible if the operator does not keep a record of kilos fed daily per pond and does not check his feeds inventory levels and merely relies on his caretaker.
 
12. Overprice bangus fry or fingerlings purchased from suppliers

An operator who is new to the business can sometimes buy his starting bangus stock (fry or fingerling) at a jacked-up price. Being new, he often relies on his more seasoned caretaker to source supply, negotiate, and close deals with suppliers and/or agents. 

Often the caretaker acts as a sub-agent without the owner’s consent or knowledge. As a result instead of buying bangus fry or fingerlings at the prevailing price, the inexperienced operator pays extra. The caretaker pockets the difference and gets away with it. His justification - prices are variable – sometimes high, sometimes low.

13. Accept short delivery of supplies

Profits in bangus farming can suffer through lack of controls in the delivery and receipt of purchased supplies. Examples are purchase of “lumut” (filamentous algae) used as natural feeds for bangus instead of commercial pelletized feeds. Lumut is usually bought in “garong” (tricycle with box or container side car) or in some few cases in sacks or large wicker baskets (“tiklis”). 

The seller or supplier can sometimes make it appear that the container, sack or basket is full, but is actually hollow inside, resulting in short delivery of the correct quantity of “lumut”. Here, role of caretaker is crucial since he’s the one who checks the goods received.

Same is true with sacks of chicken manure. Although number of sacks delivered is correct, the content is only half chicken manure – the other half is rice hull, mixed with the manure. A natural pesticide such as tobacco dust can sometimes be corrupted by mixing it with lumber saw dust.

If supplies are delivered and counted by number of sacks (in case of lumut, tobacco dust, chicken manure, or stale bread), short delivery can occur even when the number of sacks is correct. Why? Small sized sacks are used instead of the regular ones.

Chicken manure delivered in small sized sacks. My farm overseer noticed and called the supplier's attention. The supplier relented and gave additional 6 sacks free.

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